Sri Kartarpur Sahib: A Pilgrimage Across The Border

The Dera Baba Nanak - Sri Kartarpur Sahib Pilgrimage through the corridor between India and Pakistan is a dream for many. It is also an experience that tells you humanity is the same, despite the borders between them, writes Aarti David. 

I recently had the privilege to visit the Kartarpur Sahib Gurudwara with a bunch of my school friends. It has indeed been one of the most memorable days of my life. Right from the moment we floated the idea of the trip to the day, we managed to get permission to visit. Everything seemed surreal. In fact, it still seems like it was a dream that came true. The thrill of crossing the border beside the religious pilgrimage made it even more enchanting for me. 

We took a flight to Amritsar and then a tempo traveller that took us to Dera Baba Nanak ICP (Integrated Check Post). This is where one has to go through immigration from the Indian side. The protocol is the same as it is for any other international travel. The visit to the Dera Baba Nanak is a daylong affair, and no one is allowed to stay overnight. So my recommendation would be to plan your travel well so that you can make the most of this day and spend as much time as possible at the Gurudwara, bearing in mind that you need time for immigration and security checks at both India and Pakistan sides. 

Gurdwara Dera Baba Nanak is located on the east bank of the Ravi River, roughly 1 kilometre from the Indo-Pakistan border. Kartarpur, Pakistan, is located on the river's western bank. Gurdwara Sri Kartarpur Sahib is located in Pakistan's Narowal region, approximately 4.5 km from the international border, near the historic town of Dera Baba Nanak, Gurdaspur, Punjab, India. The Indian portion of the Dera Baba Nanak - Sri Kartarpur Sahib corridor consists of a 4.1 km long four-lane roadway from Dera Baba Nanak to the international border and a modern Passenger Terminal Building (PTB) at the international border. Dera Baba Nanak is a city created by Sri Guru Nanak Dev Ji's devotees, who named it after their great ancestor. Kartarpur is where he spent the last 18 years of his life. 

  The Sri Kartarpur Sahib Corridor is a visa-free border crossing and a religious corridor connecting the two Gurudwaras in India and Pakistan. You must apply for travel permission from the MHA (Ministry of Home Affairs). Once you are granted permission to travel, you receive an electronic travel authorisation (ETA) which you are required to carry to Dera Baba Nanak ICP. You will also need to bring your passport for immigration. Indian pilgrims entering the corridor must pay US$ 20 at the entry point, so ensure you have this before you set out. The MHA website lists all the do's and dont's that must be adhered to while making this trip. Free-of-cost transportation and other services are available from India and when you cross the border en route to the Gurudwara. 

  As for us, as soon as we set foot across the border, the rain gods decided to give us a grand welcome and bless our journey. It poured incessantly throughout the time we were there at Dera Baba Nanak. However, this did not deter us or any other pilgrims from making the most of this opportunity that each of us had been bestowed with. We were well planned for the rains based on the unpredictable Delhi weather before we set out and had been smart enough to carry our umbrellas. This proved to be a blessing in disguise as we navigated our way across the Gurudwara premises. We did the Darshan, listened to the soulful Shabad by the Ragis and partook of the Kada Prasad on the way out. And I'm not the least bit ashamed to admit that I asked for it twice over and then even asked a friend to get it for me a third time. It was just so delicious and heavenly. We also got some packets of dry Prasad to carry home for family and friends. 

The location of the gurudwara is on the land where Guru Nanak Devji used to farm. Legend has it that his disciples found flowers underneath a sheet the next morning when he left his body. His disciples performed the last rites as per the rituals. A samadhi was built in his remembrance inside the gurudwara; the Muslim disciples buried the flowers, and a grave exists at the spot outside. A well outside irrigated the fields in Sri Guru Nanak Dev Ji's time. It is called the Kuan Sahib, from where we had the holy water and carried some back home.

After the Darshan, we proceeded to the Langar hall, where we were served the most delicious food. The highlight for me was the sweet rice made with jaggery. Most of the people in the hall serving the langar were locals with very courteous and polite attitude and demeanour. When I asked for tea without milk (because I'm lactose intolerant), they were glad to make Kahwa, especially for me. Guru ka Langar is the most satisfying food one can ever consume. We were lucky to have this opportunity. 

Not too far from the Langar hall is a small complex with a handful of shops selling food items, clothing and artefacts. Even though it was raining heavily, we all went to the shops to check out what was available. Among my friends, some picked up juttis (traditional footwear), some dry fruits, some sweets (their Sohan halwa tastes exactly like our Dhoda, only much sweeter), fridge magnets and some dress material. The shopkeepers were very friendly and eager to exchange a word and, of course, sell their goods.

On this trip, one realised that even though we may be divided by a border—we speak alike, look alike, dress alike and eat alike—People are basically all alike. My visit to the Gurudwara was a very fulfilling one. I felt extremely calm and light after. A trip made with childhood buddies is precious, and if it is to a place where Baba Nanak resided in the last years of his life, then that makes it priceless.

For more information, including the application process, visit here: https://prakashpurb550.mha.gov.in/kpr/

All images courtesy: Author

Have you visited this corridor and the Gurudwara? Is this or any other across-the-border place part of your bucket list? Share your thoughts with us in the comments below.